Apparatus for making and attaching shirrings



July 12, 1949. c. SEAMAN 2,475,750

I APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS Filed July 21, 1947 5 shets-sheet 1 INVENTOR. CHARL 55 554 MA N A TTO/ZNE )1 July 12, 1949. c.SEAMAN 3 APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS I Filed July 21,1947 JNVEN TOR. CH/I a 55 55A MAN 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 July 12, 1949. Y c.SEAMAN 2,4753% APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND A'ITACHING SHIRRI NGS Filed July21, 1947 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 IN VEN TOR. CHA E4. E5 55mm Jufiy 12, 1943a c.SEAMAN 2, ,7

APPARATUS FOR MAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS Filed July 21, 1947 5Sheets-Sheet 4 3 JNVENTOR.

I CHARL E5 554 MAN ATTORNEY July 12, 1949. c. SEAMAN APPARATUS FORMAKING AND ATTACHING SHIRRINGS Filed July 21, 1947 IN VEN TOR. Owns: 554444 ATTORNEY Patented July 12, 1949 UNITED STATS APPARATUS FGR MAKINGAND ATTACHING SHIRRIN GS 3 Claims.

This invention relates to an apparatus for making trimming. Moreparticularly, it relates to a sewing machine or attachment for makingand attaching shirring to collars and the like.

An object of this invention is to provide a de vice for making andattaching the trimming in a single operation.

Another object of this invention is to provide an apparatus forattaching shirring to a collar having two plies by means of a single rowof stitches and trimmin the edge portion of the stitched material sothat the edge of the stitched material is in close proximity to the rowof stitches,

An additional object of this invention is t provide a sewing machineattachment for making, and attaching shirring to collars and the likewhich can be attached to a standard sewing ma chine without mutilating,destroying or otherwise modifying a standard sewing machine.

Other and additional objects will become apparent hereinafter.

The objects of the invention are accomplished, in general, by deliveringa shirring material between upper and lower layers of a base material toa presser foot and, after said materials have been stitched, but beforethe stitched material leaves the machine, cutting away the edge portionof the stitched material extending beyond the row of stitches so thatwhen the stitched material is reversed or turned, the edge of thematerial extending between the top and bottom plies will be in closeproximity to the concealed row of stitches.

The shirring material, though simultaneously fed with the top and bottombase materials, is fed at a faster rate so that it is caused to gatheror pucker in folds or pleats at the point of stitching. The shirring iseffected by a shirring blade which reciprocates ahead of the needle pathand which engages the shirring material to form folds or pleats therein.The shirring blade is reciprocated by means driven from the pulley endof the machine.

The edge portion of the stitched material adjacent the heel of thepresser foot passes between a cutting mechanism which longitudinallysevers such edge portion to provide an edge in close proximity to theline of stitches. The cutting mechanism comprises an adjustablestationary knife over which the edge portion passes and a reciprocatingknife cooperating with the station- The reciprocating knife is actuatedpulley end of the maary knife. by means driven from the chine.

The shirring blade and the cutting mechanism, as well as the actuatingmeans therefor, are mounted on a bracket to constitute a sewingmachine'attachment which can be readily secured and quickly removed froma standard sewing machine.

Means are also provided to permit the delivery of the top and bottomlayers of the base material with the shirring material therebetween intothe zone of action of the vertically reciprocating needle of the sewingmachine.

The invention will be more clearly understood by reference to thefollowing detailed description when taken in connection with theaccompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the attachment in position on a sewingmachine head, the sewing machine head being broken away for clarity;

Figure 2 is an elevation of the needle end of the machine shown inFigure 1, with the head broken away;

Figure 3 is a front elevation of the attachment with part of the machinehead and the driving means omitted;

Figure 4 is a section taken on the line 4-4 of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a section taken on the line 55 of Figure 2;

Figure 6 is an end view of the pulley end of the machine;

Figure 7 is a perspective view showing the arrangement of the knivesrelative to the presser foot;

Figure Sis a detail of the feed plate;

Figure 9 is a detail of the guide for the shirring material;

Figure 10 is a section of the material as it leaves the machine;

Figure 11 is a plan view of a portion of a collar showing the trimmingproduced by this invention; and

Figure 12 is a section taken on the line i2-i2 of Figure 11,

Referring nowto the drawings, wherein like reference numerals designatelike parts, the reference numeral 2 designates the base of a standardsewing machine head having an overhanging arm 4. On one end (see Figures2 and 3), the arm 4 is secured to a needle head 6 which carries a needlebar 8 in which a needle I is secured in the usual manner. The head 6also carries a presser foot bar I2 on which there is removably secured apresser foot I4, hereinafter more fully explained, by means of the screwIS. A manually operated lever I8 is provided to elevate the presser footbar I'2 when desired, as, for example, to provide clearance forinserting or removing the work. The needle bar 8 is driven in the usualmanner by a drive shaft 20, which is actuated by a belt pulley 22 on theother end of the arm 4 and driven in the usual manner. The machine isalso provided with the usual hand wheel 24. The presser foot I4cooperates with the usual type of feed dogs 26, which are actuated inthe known manner. The feed dogs 26 are positioned in slots in a plate 32which is also provided with the usual needle hole.

The sewing machine head and appurtenant parts (except the details ofconstruction of the presser foot, hereafter more fully described) justdescribed are of standard construction and include the usual stitchingmechanism. However, only so much of the sewing machine head has beendescribed as is necessary to an understanding of the present invention.

In accordance with this invention, the bottom layer of the base materialB is fed beneath a guide plate carried by a base plate- 42 which issecured to the base of the machine by screws 44 passing through slots 46to permit transverse adjustment thereof. The guide plate 40, providedwith a slot 48 to permit clearance of the needle I0, is positioned inadvance of and adjacent the path of the needle ID. The shirring materialS is fed over the top of the guide plate 40, and a guide wire secured tothe guide plate 40 guides the shirring material S over the top of theguide plate 40.

The shirring material S is delivered to the guide 50 by a guidewhichconsists of laterally telescoping bent members 54 and 56. The member 54is carried on an arm 58 which is adjustably (slidably) mounted in ablock carried on the base plate 42. A set screw 62 secures the arm 58 inadjusted position in the block 60. The guide member 56 is carried on anarm 64 which is also adjustably (slidably) mounted in the block 60. Aset screw 66 secures the arm 64 in position in the block. By adjustmentof the arms 58 and 64 in the block 60, the Width of the shirring guidecan be increased or decreased as desired in accordance with the width ofthe shirring material S.

The shirring material S, as it leaves its guide, cooperates with theguide Wire 50 and passes over the guide plate 40. A bent wire 60 issecured to the shirring guide to permit feeding of the shirring materialinto the guide from a suitable source of supply.

The top layer of base material T is fed to the presser foot I4 above theshirring material S and is guided by means of a lip 10 and a guidemember 12 attached to the presser foot I4 (see Figure '1) and forming aslot 14 therebetween through which the edge of the material T passes.

Engaging the shirring material S on the guide plate 40 is a shirringblade 80 which is provided with serrations 82 at its end and is adaptedto rest upon the shirring material S on the feed plate 40 and bereciprocated, in the manner to secured by screws 202 to the block I60.

be described, for forming folds or pleats in said material. In the formshown, the shirring blade is provided with a recess 83 to clear theneedle and, due to the arrangement and construction of the parts, theshirring blade engages the shirring material S on the top surfacethereof. The shirring blade 80 is secured by screws 84 to a bracket 86which is mounted on a pin 88 carried by an arm 90. The shirring blade 80is held in engagement with the shirring material S by a spring 92, oneend of which rests on the bracket 86 and the other end of which issecured to. the arm 90.

The arm is adjustably secured by screws 96 and slots 98 to anoscillating arm I00 secured onto a rock shaft I02. The rock shaft I02 iscarried in a journal I04 on the forward end of a forwardly anddownwardly inclined arm I06 of a bracket I08 and is secured to one endof an arcuate arm IIO. The arcuate arm H0 is provided with an arcuateslot II4 which is adapted to cooperate with a pin IIB carried on one endof a link H8, the opposite end of which is journaled about an eccentricI20 secured on a shaft I22. A wing nut I24 is adapted to secure the pinH6 in adjusted position in the slot I I4.

The bracket I08 is secured at its upper end by a bolt I30 on a boss I32011 the rear of the overhanging arm 4, as shown in Figures 2 and 3. Thebracket I08 is provided at its lower end with a journal I34 in which theshaft I22 is rotatably mounted. The shaft I22 is disposed at the back ofthe machine and is rotatably mounted in a boss I36 carried at one end ofa bracket I30 which is secured to the machine head on the pulley side bya bolt I40 (see Figures 1 and 6). The shaft I22 carries a pulley I42engaging a belt I44 which is driven by a pulley I46 attached to thedrive shaft 20. The belt I44 may comprise a standard type of drive belt,such as, for example, a belt having a plurality of cross wires I48engaging slots I50 in the pulleys I42 and I46 so as to provide apositive drive.

As shown in Figure 3, the bracket I08 is provided with a lateral arm I52which at the end thereof carries the forwardly extending and downwardlyinclined arm I 06.

A block I60 is secured to the arm I06 by means of countersunk screwsI62. The block I60 is shaped so as to receive a pinion I64. The pinionI64 is adapted to cooperate with a rack I66 slidably disposed in avertical groove in the block I60. The block I60 is provided with a coverplate I68 which is secured in position by screws I10.

The rack I66 is secured at one end of an arm I12 which extendstransversely in the direction toward the presser foot of the machine.

A knife support I16 is adjustably secured by the screw I18 and the slotI86 on the arm I12. The knife support I16 is provided with a downwardlyextending leg I82 on which a knife I84 is adjustably secured by means ofthe clamping plate I86 and the screws I88. Due to the construction ofthe arm I12 and the knife holder I15, the knife I84 is disposed adjacentand laterally of the heel of the presser foot I4. The knife I84, whichis adapted to be reciprocated by means hereafter described, is adaptedto cooperate with an adjustable stationary knife I90. The stationaryknife I90 is carried at one end of an arm I92 which is slidably mountedin a block I94. A set screw I96 secures the arm I92 in adjustedposition. The block I94 is secured by screws I88 to a plate 200 which,in turn, is The stationary knife I90 is adjusted in position on themachine so that the marginal portion of the stitched material will passthereover before the stitched material leaves the presser foot as, forexample, the stitched material passes beneath the heel of the presserfoot. Upon reciprocation of the knife I86, the edge portion of thestitched material passing between it and the stationary knife will besevered.

The knife I84 is adapted to be reciprocated, relative to the stationaryknife Iiili to effect the cutting operations, by the action of theoscillatory movement of the pinion I 64 and the rack Hi6 cooperatingtherewith. The drive means for effecting oscillatory movement of thepinion its will now be described.

The pinion I64 is oscillated by a pinion shaft 2H! secured to one end ofa rock lever 2I2. The other end of the rock lever 2I2 is secured to arock shaft 2M carried at one end of an arm fit. The other end of the arm2H1 is secured. as by a screw 2| 8, to the eccentric I on the shaft I22.Thus, upon rotation of the shaft I22 from the drive end of the machine,the rack I66 will be reciprocated whereby the knife I815 will bereciprocated.

To minimize vibration, a spring 220 has one end thereof secured to theleg I82 and the other end secured to a pin 22I carried by the block I69.

In operation, the bottom layer of the base material B is fed beneath theguide plate 40, and the top layer of the base material T is fed so thatthe longitudinal edge thereof passes through the slot 14. The shirringmaterial S is passed about the guide 58 and through the shirring guidefrom which is passes beneath the guide Ell on the feed plate 4E3. Duringoperation of the machine, the shirring blade 80 is reciprocated so thatthe shirring material S on the plate is engaged by the blade 38 and isadvanced to the presser foot in the form of folds or pleats between thetop material T and the bottom material B. After the material passesthrough the zone of action of the needle and it has been stitched with asingle row of stitches passing through all three materials but prior toits leaving the presser foot, the edge portion of the stitched materialis passed over the stationary knife I99. Due to the reciprocation of thereciprocating knife I M, such marginal portion is severed.

On leaving the machine, the stitched material is in the form shown inFigure 10. Referring to Figure 10, it will be noted that the materialsare secured together by a single line of stitches 222 passing througheach of the materials T, B and s, and the edge of the stitched materialis of uniform width and in close proximity to said line of stitches 222.The material is then turned whereby the line of stitches 222 isconcealed on both sides of the product and the shirring material Sextends in a direction opposite to that in which the materials T and Bextend.

The pleats or folds of the shirring S can be varied in size by adjustingthe stroke of the shirring blade 80.

The cutting of the edge of the stitched material is accomplished, in thepreferred form of the invention, after the material has been stitchedand before the stitched material passes from beneath the presser foot.Due to this, the concealed edge of the product is of uniform width andin close proximity to the row of stitches,

all)

with the result that an attractive product is obtained.

Since it is obvious that various changes and modifications may be madein the above description without departing from the nature or spiritthereof, this invention is not restricted thereto except as set forth inthe appended claims.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine, an overhanging arm, drive means including arotating shaft at one end of said arm, a head on the other end of saidarm carrying :a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to holdmaterial in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper andlower layers of base material to said presser foot, means to deliver ashirring material to said presser foot between said layers of basematerial, means engaging said shirring material in advance of saidpresser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, said presser footbeing adapted to cooperate with said feed dog to feed all of saidmaterials to the path of the needle for stitching by a single row ofstitches, a stationary knife laterally of the heel of said presser footand over which the edge portion of the stitched material passes, asecond knife adapted to cooperate with said stationary knife to seversaid edge portion before the stitched material passes from beneath saidpresser foot. a support carrying said second knife, a vertical rack onsaid support, a pinion cooperating with said rack, and means actuated bysaid rotating shaft to oscillate said pinion.

2. In a sewing machine, an overhanging arm, drive means including arotating shaft at one end of said arm, a head on the other end of saidarm carrying a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, a presser foot to holdmaterial in feeding engagement therewith, means to deliver upper andlower layers of base material to said presser foot, means to deliver ashirring material to said presser foot between said layers of basematerial, a reciprocable shirring blade adapted to engage said shirringmaterial in advance of the presser foot for forming folds or pleatstherein, means actuated by said rotating shaft to reciprocate saidblade, said presser foot being adapted to cooperate with said feed dogto feed all of said materials to the path of the needle for stitching bya single row of stitches, a stationary knife laterally of the heel ofsaid presser foot and over which the edge portion of the stitchedmaterial passes, a second knife adapted to cooperate with saidstationary knife to sever said edge portion before the stitched materialpasses from beneath said presser foot, a support carrying said secondknife, a vertical rack on said support, a pinion cooperating with saidrack, and means actuated by said rotating shaft to oscillate saidpinion.

3. An attachment for a sewing machine having an overhanging arm, drivemeans including a rotating shaft on one end of said arm, a head on theother end of said arm carrying a reciprocating needle, a feed dog, apresser foot to hold material in feeding engagement therewith, means todeliver upper and lower layers of base material to said presser foot,and means to deliver a shirring material to said presser foot betweensaid layers of base material, said attachment comprising a bracketadapted to be secured to said overhanging arm and carrying areciprocable shirrer blade adapted to engage said shirring material inadvance of said presser foot for forming folds or pleats therein, meansadapted to be driven by said rotating shaft to reciprocate said blade, astationary knife adapted to be disposed laterally of the heel of saidpresser foot so that the edge portion 0f the stitched material passesREFERENCES CITED thereover, a second knife adapted to cooperate The l wn r f rences are of record in the with said stationary knife to seversaid edge file of this P t:

portion before the stitched material passes frorn 5 UNITED STATESPATENTS beneath said presser foot, 2. support carrying said secondknife, a vertical rack on said support, a Number Name te pinioncooperating with said rack, and means 91 ess June 14, 1881 adapted to bedriven from said rotating shaft to 260,291 Gilbert June 27, 1882oscillate said pinion. 10 1, 33,705 De Voe Oct. 31, 1922 1,469,422Luscher Oct. 2, 1923 CHARLES SEAMAN, ,277,721 Seaman Mar, 31, 1942

